Our route, accomodation and bike shops
(Please click on the maps for more detail than the current view)
UK
London, Swanscombe, Canterbury, Dover
Canterbury: Ersham Lodge, 12 New Dover Road, CT1 3AP www.ersham-lodge.co.uk
France & Belgium
Dunkerque, Ypres, Tournai, Mons, Sivry, Olloy-sur-Viroine, Rochefort, Bastogne
Luxembourg
Vianden, Echternachtenbruck
Germany
Trier, Mannheim, Heidelburg, Eberbach, Heilbronn
Trier bike shop: Monz gmbh & co, Bruchausenstrasse 20, Trier, www.monz-trier.com
Heilbronn bike shop: Bike Maz, Sudstrasse 90, Heilbronn, www.bikemax.de
View Western Europe in a larger map
Austria
six part train trip to take our bikes to Bratislava
Slovakia
Bratislava, Dunajska Streda, Komarno
Hungary
Komaron, Esztergom, Visigrad, Szentendre, Budapest, Velence, Balatonszesped, Gabalok
Croatia
Ludbreg, Krizevci, Sisak, Veljun, Otocacs, Rab, Pag, Zadar
Krizevci: cheapest hotel in town is at the petrol station on the outskirts of Krizevci
Otocacs: plenty of 'zimmer frei' home stays
Rab island: Camping Padova III, Rab Town
Zadar: Camping Borik, Majstora Radovana 7, Zadar 23000
Greece
Patra, Porrovitsa-Akrata, Mycenae, Tolo, Epıdavros, Kallonı, Methana
Pelopponese: Akrata Camping, Porrovitsa-Akrata, 25km from Egio, tzabcamp@oteget.gr
Isthmia: Isthmia Beach Camping
Mycenae: plenty of camping grounds
View Eastern Europe & Greece in a larger map
Turkey
Bodrum, Mazı, Ören, Akbuk, Akyata, Goçova, Kale, Tavas, Denizli, Pammukkale, Dinar, Oluborlu, Yalvac, Fele, Konya, Nevsehir, Goreme, Avanos, Kayseri then overnight train to Malatya, Nemrut Dagi, Siverek, Diyarbakir, Bingol, Erzurum, Kars, Arpacay, Ardahan, Hanak, Seyitoren, Turkgozu.
Bitiz, Bodrum - camping spots at the bays along the dirt track past the boatyard
Pammukale: Artemis Yorik hotel (cheap rooms with pool) www.artemisyorukhotel.com
Konya: a free campsite on the eastern ringroad
Goreme: Panorama Camping, Uchisar Road
Bingol: Hotel Cinar, Sisli Sok, parallel to Genc Cadessi main street
Kars: Caravanserai Otel, opposite Bulut supermarket on Faiy Street (main street)
Kayseri bike shops: in a laneway behind the cheap hotels listed in Lonely Planet
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Georgia
Vale, Akhaltsikhe, Akhalkalaki, Ninotsminda, Poka, Manglisi, Tbilisi
Akhalkalaki: truckers dormitory underneath a late-night market shop on the main street, 300m from the banks.
Tbilisi: Irina's Hostel, Marjianishvili Street (near Orthodox church)
Tbilisi bike shop: repairs and second-hand parts at the old Velodrome
Armenia
Shnogh, Haghpat, Alaverdi, Vanadzor, Spitak, Yerevan, Alaverdi, Tatev, Kapan, Meghri
Haghpat: Flora's B&B opposite Haghpat church
Yerevan: the wonderful Tourist Information office behind Republic Square has a list of all accomodation in Yerevan and will ring them on your behalf
Armenian visa extensions: OVIR office, behind the theatre (corner Magrashots and Tumanyan Streets). Cost in 2009 was 500 dram/day, 3-5 days 'processing'
Iranian Embassy, Yerevan: Iranian Consulate, Komitas Street (northside of Yerevan). After completing the application form, go to 'Melat Iranian Bank' on Republic Square to pay fee and obtain receipt. Return receipt, application form and passport photos to Iranian Consulate before 12pm. Only 2-3 days processing if already had approval via a visa agency. www.magic-carpet-travel.com
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Iran
Nurduz, Jolfa, Tabriz, Zanjan, Soltaniyeh, Qeydar, Hamadan, Esfahan, Yazd, Taft, Eglid, Aspas, Ahmadabad, Pasargarde, Persepolis, Shiraz
Tabriz: Park Hotel, Imam Khomeini Street, between Shariati and Golestan cross streets, Tel: 00411 555 1852
Hamadan: Asr-e Jadid Guesthouse, Khandany Alley, To Fase Masjed jamea, First Ekbatan Street, Tel: 9881 252 4168
Isfahan: hostel on Chahar Bagh street, or Nagshe Jahan Hotel, Chahar Bagh, Tel: 0311 221 9619
Yazd: Silk Road Hotel or Orient Hotel
Persepolis: camping ground opposite carpark or along Persepolis avenue
Tabriz bike shops: Nadar Square, west of Imam Khomeini Street
Iran Visa extensions in Isfahan: Rudaky Street, Isfahan. Pay the visa fee at Bank Melli and take a copy of all documents at a copyshop 200m from the bank.
Sri Lanka
Negombo, Chillaw,Wariyapole, Padeniya, Daladagama, Anuradhapura, Uppaveli, Habarana, Dambulla, Kandy, Kurunegala
Negombo Beach: De Phani guesthouse (1000R), or Ruwini Restaurant (700R),Lewis Place road
Chillaw: government guesthouse on the beach, turn left at the roundabout and through the market (turn right then left again). 4 beds 1100 rupee
Wariyapole: saw some hotels here
Daladagama: Rathniya guesthouse (600R) - orange monstrosity near crossroads.
Anuradhapura: Charm Inn Backpackers charminn@gmail.com
Uppaveli: French Anton Guesthouse, Uppaveli at the 6km to Trincomalee road marker
Kantale: just as you come into Kantale (from the north) a no-name guesthouse sign on RHS points to a laneway on LHS "Rooms Restaurant"
Habarana: Habarana - expensive government guesthouse at the crossroads (2000R) or head east on Polonoruwwa hwy 500m past Jude's Shop, dirt side-road near Catholic church (1200 ruppee)
Dambulla: Healey’s guesthouse, next door to Sun Ray guesthouse, near the Buddhist temple
Kandy: Expeditor Guesthouse, Saranankara Road
Girulla: Girulla guesthouse
Negombo bike shop: a few blocks from the Negombo bus stand
Indian visas in Colombo: Indian Visa Application Centre (not the Indian Embassy): 433 Galle Road
(Sri Lanka map will be put up here soon)
India:
Rajasthan!
Udaipur: Lal Ghat guesthouse, 33 Lal Ghat (cheap digs) or mid-range hotel, Poonam Haveli, 39 Lal Ghat, poonamhaveli@hotmail.com
Pushkar: Hotel Navaratan Palace (with a pool) www.pushkarnavaratanpalace.com
Jaipur: Krishna Palace, Jaipur
Delhi: Hotel Downtown, Pahar Ganj (very cheap), Pearl Plaza, Pahar Ganj (mid-range $10 rooms)
Raxaul Bazaar, Bihar: Hotel Suraj, Main road
Nepal
Mahendranagar, Butwal, Pokhara, Besisahar, Gorkha, Mugling, Kathmandu, Birganj.
Pokhara: Little Tibet Guesthouse, north lakeside littletbgh@yahoo.com
Kathmandu: Kathmandu Peace Guesthouse, north-west Thamel
Birganj (India border): Hotel Everest
Kathmandu bike shop: Dawn Till Dusk, Alley of Jyoti Street, Kathmandu
(Nepal map will be put up here soon)
Pakistan
Lahore, Gilgit, Phander, Gilgit, Skardu, Khaplu, Macholo, Shigar, Gilgit, Karimabad, Passu, Sost, Bar Khun, Koksil
Lahore: Regal Internet Inn, Regal Chowk, - dodgy but only cheap place in town
Islamabad: Islamabad Campground – we heard good things about this
Gilgit: Madina Guesthouse – the best guesthouse in Pakistan, rooms and dorms
Phander: camping at the police checkpost
Skardu: Baltistan Tourist Cottage, Mohammed Iqbal is a great host/guide btciqbal@yahoo.com
Khaplu: NAPWD guesthouse
Shigar: NAPWD guesthouse or ask at Naseen’s shop/restaurant for cheaper rooms
Karimabad: Old Hunza Inn, rooms and dorms
Passu: Passu Inn
Sost: Sky Bridge Inn
(Pakistan map will be put up here soon)
China (Xinjiang Province)
Tashkurgan, Ghez Canyon, Kashgar
Tashkurgan: New Traffic Hotel at the bus station
Kashgar: Old Town Youth Hostel, Wusitangboyi Lu 233, off Seman Lu
Urumqi: Youth Hotel (Yellow building), Yanjzijiang Lu, 300m south of Hongshan roundabout (cheapest digs in town) OR Maitian Youth Hostel 726 Youhao South Lu, east of Hongshan roundabout
Kashgar bike shops: 'Giant' dealers (smaller than Urumqi), 37 Jiankang Lu or corner of Xihog Lu and Hetan Lu (under the flyover)
Urumqi bike shop: 'Giant' dealer, 415 Xinmin Lu
Stantours contact in Urumqi (can pay cash for Central Asia visas here): Xinjiang Silk Road Adventures, 10th Floor, No 320 Jain She Lu (above the ABC bank, opposite Lai Yuan hotel). Tel: 0991 2846861
Kazakhstan embassy, Urumqi: 26 Kunming Lu (north side of Urumqi, go along Beijing Lu then right-hand turn). One visit to fill in form, another to get the form for payment at Chinese Contruction Bank (across the park from the embassy), a third visit to collect your passport and visa. Took us 4 days, for others it took 7 days. Approx $20
Kyrgystan Embassy, Urumqi: next to Central Asia Hotel, Hetan Gonglu (immediately north of the flyover), Open 12-2, closed on Wednesdays
(Chinese map will be put up here soon)
Kazakhstan
Khorgos, Zharkent, Kegen, Almaty, Merke, Ak Biik,
Zharkent: cheap guesthouse, Gastinitsa Aзия (street parallel north to main road; ask taxi drivers at the main crossroads)
Almaty: cheap hotel is Manas Hotel (манас), 30 Manasa Street off Abay Avenue (абау) (western end of Abay near Urban Atheltic Bikes). 5000 tengger ($35) for 4-5 persons sharing 2 room and bathroom, 2500-3000 for double room with shared bathroom. Car park for storing bicycles and motorcycles. Almaty's cheap hostel is 3rd Dormitory. 1000 tengger/bed, 150-200t/bicycle, fetid toilets and rude reception included. Showers 15t.
Merke: Hotel Merke, 3000 tengger per person
Almaty bike shops: Uraban Athletic (has Team Kazakhstan mechanic), Abay 105 (western end of Abay Avenue) or Extremal bike shop, Abay 40
Tajikistan Embassy in Almaty: Sanatoenaya 16, off Al-Faradi Street, near Kazgu Univeristy, Baganashil district. Tel: 269 7059 (Follow Al-Faradi street to outskirts of Almaty. 1.7km after the Marriott Hotel there are traffic lights and the end of a park on your LHS. Sanatoenaya Street is a narrow street diagonally to your left, going uphill. Tajikistan Embassy on LHS after 200m. Open 10-12pm)
Uzbekistan Embassy in Almaty: Baganshaev Street, close to crossroad with Gogal Street. Get there at 1pm to put name on list. Consul calls names form the list after 2pm and writes them on a list of appointments for that afternoon. If lucky, will see the Consul that afternoon. \
Chinese embassy: Impossible to get a visa here.
(Kazakhstan map will be put here soon)
Uzbekistan
Khiva: beautiful Meros Guesthouse, Ichon Qala: for $25 with a/c, ensuite and roof terrace it's $5 better invested than the cheap and run-down Oterbek
Bukhara: Hotel O'tkirbek, Babhanova lane, off the square $20/night, discounts for longer
China embassy in Tashkent: Gulomova Street, between Musakhanov & Akhunbabayev streets. (Open Mon, Weds, Fri, 09:00-12:00) $80 for same-day processing. A good investment to get out of expensive Tashkent
The best cycling bits
France:
Eppe Sauvage to Moustier en Fagne - easy route on quiet road;
Houyet to Rochfort cycle path - long flat stretch along a hedge-lined laneway.
Belgium
Vesqueville to Moircy - little traffic on this forest road and new bitumen stretch.
Luxembourg
Wiltz to Kautenbach - a road worthy of a luxury car ad, winding downhill through forest.
Germany
Moselle route from Treir to Koblenz - easy cycling, gets a bit busy around Winnigen & Guls;
Eberbach to Zwingenberg along the Neckar River - dirt paths through forest, few minor hills then a tiny ferry across the river.
Slovakia
Gabcikovo tp Medvedov cycle path - easy cycling along the embankment;
Backroad just before Vel'ky Lel that's parallel with the MTB route - big dusty potholes that are like a roller coaster.
Hungary
Tahitifolu to Budapest cycle path - easy cycling into the city;
Balatonalmadi to Balatonszepezd - Lake Balaton cycle path;
Galambok to Nagyrecse (the signposted minor road, not the N7) - rollercoaster hills.
Croatia
Apatovec to Don. Glogovnica - switchbacks opening to wide downhill curves through farmland and finally a beautiful flat stretch edging the forest, barely pedalling for 5km;
Korenicko to Babin Potok - 1km downhill that opens onto a plain. Easy run to Babin Potok across the basin plain. Stop at the roadside restaurant in Babin Potok, it's frequented by tour groups but worth the wait for a kilo or pork or fresh trout.
Vratnik lookout to Senj - 17km of switchbacks down to the coast. Great for speeding!
Tovarnele -Novalja, Pag island - after the initial short 20% climb out of the harbour at Tovarnele, it's undulations all the way. Few long climbs but compensated by long downhills
Greece
Coastal road from Patra to Methana - some fantastic stretches and if on a Sunday, few vehicles on the road in the morning
Turkey
Oren to Akyata - rollercoasting along the coast, inland then back to the coast. Good wild camping spots in the forest and little swimming spot 6km before Akyata.
Mugla to Kale - quiet highway climbing through the forest. Loads of long uphills and 10% gradients but rewarded with sweeping downhills and springs at the bottom of the hills. Plenty of wild camping spots
Highway 650 turnoff to Uluborlu - Uluborlu-Yalvac - a thousand landscapes and easy riding along good roads.
Malatya - Nemrut Dagi - this is a series of gruelling climbs that we did in three days, stopping in Kubbe Gedici and Tepehan. We couldn't find much info about it, so hope this helps anyone planning to tackle Nemrut from teh north. The first day to Kubbe Gedici is all uphill. Second day, a half day to Tepehan is a climb then downhill into the village. The third day, Tepehan-Nemrut Dagi starts off with a downhill but is as tough and steep as first day. After arriving at the ticket office, it's another 5km uphill. Second day we made a half-day stopping in Tepehan. Camping: Can camp on Kubbe Gedici summit or at the locanta 3km downhill in the village. There's camping 3 km before Tepehan or stay near the spring 2km on the other side of the village. Food: markets in Malatya, Pazarcik and Tepehan. Locanta at Kubbe Gedici. There's only an overpriced cafeteria at Nemrut Dagi. Water: 1st day, nothing between the Yenice and Kubbe Gedici mountain spring so stock up. 2nd day, Pazarcik and Tepehan. 3rd day, stock up in Tepehan and river valley 14km before Nemrut.
Bingol - Erzurum - perversely, we enjoyed this mostly uphill highway. It's a fantastic route up into the high pastures
Arpaçay to Çildir Gölu - easy ride around the lake
Hanak to Turkgozu - loads of hills but stunning climbs, plateaus and then the forested valleys near Posof. Three days of riding, not many markets. Hwy D988/E691 but fairly quiet road
Georgia
Vale - Akhaltsikhe - Akhalkalaki - bitumen road, sweeping curves and a few ruins to see on the way. A short climb up into Akhalkalaki.
Armenia
Spitak - Az - the pass isn't so bad as maps make out. Long switchbacks but nothing more difficult than from the border to Vanadzor.
Iran
Eglid - Pasargarde - details to come.
Sri Lanka
Chillaw - Wariyapole - easy cycling on a secondary road, so less traffic. Road varies between smooth tarmac and disintegrated, potholed bitumen.
More routes to come...
The planned route
The original plans was to avoid mountains as much as possible until the Himalayas. We hadn't banked on the endless hills and mountains of Turkey! If you're planning a trip, Turkey wouldn't be the place to start, nor would India!
Thanks to all who've already given us contacts for the road. If you know of anyone between London and Melbourne who'd be happy to show us around their town or even lend two weary cyclists a floor or bed we'd love to meet them.